Tag: HOUSE

Easily Grow Cannabis at Home: Wiring your Greenhouse

Hello and welcome back to the GreenBox GrownIntro Series to Growing Cannabis at Home.

  In this video I explain the best way to setup your greenhouse so it uses as little electricity as possible and saves you a ton of money onyour electric bill!  I also show you how to set up your power cordsso you don’t overload any of the circuits in your house or blow any fuses.

 Here is a good shot of the power cords coming out of my greenhouse and running to the housewhere they are plugged in.

  I have to mostly use the outlets inside myhouse because we only have a couple outside.

 Here we are in the greenhouse and you can see I have 2 LED grow lights as well as 2fans and a heater towards the back.

  It is always a good Idea to hang the connectionsof your power cords so they are off the ground.

  This prevents them from getting wet, whichcould cause them to short.

  Here are the fans we have on each side andthen the heater is down there.

   This greenhouse actually uses a minimal amount of electricity because we are runningLED lights, which are only on for a couple of hours per day and use a fraction of thepower most grow lights require.

  The heater is definitely the largest sourceof power consumption, which is why I always run mine on a separate circuit from everythingelse.

  The fans in this grow room are also very powerefficient and barley use any electricity.

 This is a shot of the greenhouse from my balcony out back and here are the power cords runningup to my house and inside.

  I have a ton of other cords up here, whichare coming from my other greenhouses.

  Since I have a decent amount of equipmentto power, it is especially important I spread the cords out through out the house and don’tload them all up on one circuit.

  If you do that you can easily blow a fuseor mess up the electrical wiring in your house.

 Here we are at one of the outlets I am using inside.

  This power cord is hooked up to the heaterand 2 fans in my greenhouse down below which is plenty for this one circuit.

 The best way to decide on how many appliances you can hook up to each circuit is based onthe total amount of amps they draw.

  Each circuit in the average house can hold15 amps of total pull, so once you’ve reached that limit you should move on to the nextcircuit.

  It’s also a good idea to stay a little belowthat limit of 15 amps so nothing overheats.

  On average a fan will draw an amp or 2, andthe LEDS I am using pull 3 amps each.

 As you probably already know, the more amps you are using to power your grow, the higheryour electricity bill will be each month.

  That is why I always buy energy efficientproducts, which use a fraction of the electricity, and will cut your monthly power usage in halfor even more.

   Before I had energy efficient fans and equipment,my electricity bill had almost doubled from my cannabis grow.

  But once I switched over, it was just slightlyabove what I was paying before I started growing.

   You can always check the box the product came in to see what the amp rating is.

  Heaters are what draw the most power, andthe average 1200-watt heater pulls around 12.

5 amps.

  That’s why I recommend having a heater onit’s own circuit with maybe 1 or 2 fans on it.

   Now that you have a good grasp on how to properlypower your growing appliances, you are ready to move on to the next intro to growing video.

     That is all I have for now, but as alwaysthank you for watching and happy growing.

Source: Youtube

Greenhouse Lighting: Bright Lights, Big Produce

[Light, soft electronic music fades in.

] Narrator: Canadian winters can be long and dark.

This lack of year-round natural light impedes greenhouse production… …during the winter months.

As a result greenhouse growers need to use supplementary lighting to provide the high quality produce….

That consumers want year-round.

But not all light is created equal… …and crops develop and grow differently when they are supplied with alternative light sources.

Greenhouses currently use High Pressure Sodium, or HPS lights.

They have a low capital cost, but you can’t adjust the quality of the light.

And they can get very hot – up to 300 degrees.

Which means that plants could burn if the lights are too close.

Light Emitting Diodes, or LED lights, are a new state-of-the-art technology.

They provide higher quality light with customizable intensity, direction, and colour settings.

They also have a lower surface temperature than HPS lights… …so they can be used right inside the crop canopy.

Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada scientists, Dr.

Xiuming Hao.

From the Harrow Research and Development Centre… …and Dr.

Rong Cao from the Guelph Research and Development Centre.

Are busy a new hybrid lighting system that uses… …HPS lights above the crop canopy… …and LED lighting inside the crop canopy.

Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada is one of the leading organizations… …in the world in the study of vertical lighting distribution for greenhouses.

The results show that this new system can improve… …the yield and nutritional value of greenhouse crops.

They’ve found that by using an optimized hybrid lighting system… …that can deliver proper spectrums of light at different heights… …mini-cucumber plants yield twice as many vegetables as they would in a traditional greenhouse.

Twenty times more than they would in the field! They’re also studying the effect of different coloured LED lights… …on the production of antioxidants in greenhouse vegetables.

Blue lights increase polyphenols that help plants to protect themselves from insects and disease.

Red lights, on the other hand, increase carotenoids and are very good for plant growth and leaf health.

The results of these studies may allow Canada’s greenhouse growers to conquer Canadian winters.

And move to full 12-month production cycles.

This will allow them to produce fresh vegetables throughout the winter months… …meeting consumer demands for high quality, local produce year round.

It will also allow them to be more competitive because they will be able to edge out… …imports during the winter months and will be able to expand their presence on the international market.

With the help of our Canadian agricultural scientists… …the sun will never stop shining on Canadian greenhouse growers.

And in the right light, at the right time, everything is extraordinary.

[Light, soft electronic music fades out.

].

Source: Youtube

City Of Elmhurst Sees Red Over Family’s Greenhouse

TONIGHT HOW DID THE RUSSIAN HACKERS DO IT? PLUS, CHIP READ IN HAWAII WITH THE PRESIDENT.

THAT IS COMING UP AT 5:30 ON " THE CBS EVENING NEWS.

" A FAMILY FIGHTING TO KEEP GROWING THEIR OWN CROPS IN THEIR BACKYARD.

THE CITY IS DEMANDING THEY TAKE DOWN THE GREENHOUSE.

REPORTER: FOR THIS FAMILY THIS GREENHOUSE IS THEIR PRIDE AND JOY.

THIS IS BABY SPINACH HERE.

YOU CAN SEE GARLIC RUNNING THE LENGTH OF THE BED.

REPORTER: IT GOES UP FIVE MONTHS A YEAR MADE FROM PIPE AND PLASTIC DROP CLOTH MATERIAL THAT KEEPS THE SOIL FROM FREEZING IN THE WINTER.

WE GOT THE IDEA FROM WATCHING VIDEOS AND THOUGHT THE GROWING SEASON IS SHORT IT WOULD BE NICE IF WE COULD GET ANOTHER COUPLE MONTHS.

REPORTER: THE PROBLEM IS THE HOUSE IS IN THE BACKYARD.

THE CITY DOES NOT APPROVE OF IT.

WE SHOWED UP AT HOME AND THERE WAS A YELLOW ORDER ON THE SIDE OF IT FROM THE CITY.

REPORTER: CITY OFFICIALS SAY THE ZONING CODE PROHIBITS THESE STRUCTURES.

THE FAMILY SAYS THE CODE DOES NOT APPLY TO GARDENING.

WE BELIEVE THAT PEOPLE SHOULD HAVE THE RIGHT TO GARDEN IN THEIR BACKYARD.

REPORTER: EVEN THOUGH MOST NEIGHBORS SUPPORT THE STRUCTURE THE CITY HAS ASKED THEM TO TAKE IT DOWN.

IT IS MADDENING.

WE REALLY FEEL LIKE WE ARE DOING SOMETHING GOOD.

WE ENJOY IT.

IT PROVIDES FOOD FOR OUR KIDS.

IT IS OUR PROPERTY.

REPORTER: WE REACHED OUT TO THE CITY AND A SPOKESPERSON SAID THEY WOULD GET BACK TO US BUT THEY HAVE NOT YET.

THE FAMILY IS SCHEDULED TO TAKE THEIR FIGHT TO COURT IN JANUARY.

IT SEEMS TO BE AN ONGOING.

Source: Youtube

Relocating The DIY Ultimate Polytunnel / Greenhouse Part 1

So in February 2016 I decided to move my ultimatepolytunnel my 32ft by 14 ft polytunnel that I built a few years ago from the old plotsto the new plots.

I did make a video series on that, however,It never got published and the reason for that was because When I recorded it therewas a lot of bad weather and I was using a microphone and I didn't realise at the timethat the microphone was only working intermittently.

When it came to me editing that footage someof the sound quality wasn't really up to scratch and I decided that I wasn't going to releasethat footage.

However, there was a sponsor for that video series which was supposed tohave been three episodes and that sponsor gave me the plastic in which to do the polytunnel,so I have been in a bit of dismay really about it all because I wanted to be able to fulfillmy obligation to the company that gave me the plastic firstly and secondly it was aseries that I wanted to be able to give to you.

So I have really sort of struggled withwhether to put this footage up.

However, over the last 9 or 10 months I have had hundredsand I mean hundreds of people emailing me and messaging me saying look I understandwhat your saying, the footage might not be great but I would still really like to seeit.

So that's what these next couple of episodes are going to be about guys, It is the footageI've edited it the best I can where the footage is bad I've put the cc in for you guys soif for any reason you can't hear what I am saying or anything like that, you'll be ableto read it if you decide to all you got to do is click the cc button below.

So without any further ado guys let's geton with the footage.

This is February 2016 dismantle and move to the new premises build.

Anyway I will see you in a minute So as you can see behind me guys we've gotour 32ft by 14ft polytunnel.

Now it's a home made structure utilising scaffolding polesand timber.

We do have a series on it but what we are going to do over the next threeepisodes is take down this tunnel and we are going to move it and rebuild it at the site.

I got my brother helping me because we'vealready taken out some of the internals out of it.

But it's the end of February now, Ireally need this tunnel up and going at the new place.

I purposely haven't planted anythingbecause of that.

Now I would like to tell you, that the nextthree episodes as far as this tunnel is concerned are going to be sponsored by First Tunnelsbecause they have very kindly donated the new plastic that we need for this, So you'regonna see their link to their site there.

Now First Tunnels have a superb range of polytunnelsnot like this obviously, eventhough they can provide you with the covers.

but they gotproper polytunnels with you know the hoop structure and everything else and they'vegot water collection systems and all sorts of stuff.

If you look at these sorts of polytunnelsthat people have made, or the cheaper £150 tunnels you know half of them are on the floorwith the weather we have had this year.

So It really is worth getting yourself over toFirstTunnels If you're thinking of buying a polytunnel and investing in just that littlebit more money and benefitting from something that's gonna be there and is gonna last youfor quite a few years.

So once Dismantling the polytunnel As youknow these posts were down a fair way, a couple of feet.

Some of them are down three feet,some of them are down four feet.

they are down into a lot of soil, So we had to devisea way to get them out of the ground, now I am not sure how far down this one was, butI think it was only about three feet two and a half three feet.

but it's wedged right inthere.

So, today we are just gonna show you a quick way of pulling these that we cameup with and we are gonna put a scaffolding clamp around the pole like this we are justgonna tighten it up right.

ok, so the next step we need a chain which we just gonna feedunder this one here its locked together so all I need to do is do that.

In fact, what I'm gonna do I'm gonna shrinkthat chain down a bit, and I think we are gonna go there and I am gonna make a smallerloop and I'll put a different lock on it there you go.

right, so we've got a smaller loopthere guys ok?.

alright, we just gonna hook that loop underneath the other part of thescaffolding chain and now we need our third part which is our third part which is thisguys.

I put a piece of timber on the floor just to take a bit of weight of the soil andall we need to do is put this jack there and literally jack it up.

Now this Jack comes off a landrover so allI am gonna do is just get it up to the height at the moment we are not far from it hookthe chain around, Here we go, right, so all we need to do now is hold it back with ourfoot there and just jack the post out.

Well, that's good that lock was undone soI am gonna keep going up until I hit the other lock, There we go.

I just keep jacking itThere we are.

and it's the easiest way I know of getting a post out of the ground.

There we are, we are free now, so I can literally move that and send this backdown.

and nowI can just lift it out of the ground.

There you go, guys, so I don't know if you can quitemake this out no, let me alter the camera lens.

Ok guys, so too here this was how far down this post went into the ground we got onetwo at least three feet on this one, so that's why we couldn't get them out, we got one moreto do and then the polytunnel is down.

All the parts are on the new plot, and wherewe are standing is where it is going to go.

Now the polytunnel itself is the actual landitself isn't quite flat, so what we need to do is we need to build a line to a level thatwe can work from, ok? and then we will end up shovelling some of this soil away.

To getit level, we may raise the front yet I am not sure about that.

but essentially all theparts we need are around the green shed there the door is leaning against the shed as youcan see.

there is timber all along here and timber on the other side of the shed timberhere.

so the first port of call for this now to get this back together is to get these18 posts in the front and the rear walls, and then we can start with the rest of thestructure.

so, I will come to you when I have got some of the posts set, because we wannakeep this video quite a short series, so once I have got some of the posts set I will comeback to you and explain what we are doing next.

So as you can see here now, we just startedgetting in the posts, we have got the front up.

and that's all nice and level and thedoor will go on there shortly.

now, here we basically have to put the posts in we gota datum line across the bottom which is the bottom rail it is not screwed in at the moment,as we are having to move it to dig the posts in the right area and we have to fit the windows.

This would be quite easy if I had just come here, when we originally built it we justput a post in then we built the windows to fit where the posts were.

but now obviouslyall the window frames are already pre-built so we have to get the posts in the exact rightplace, and then it has to be exactly level and plumb so that it all works.

You will see in a second some of the postsare quite long and we are hitting bedrock so we are having to cut this much of someof the posts.

It's another pain in the backside but it will allow us, it's not an issue herebecause we are quite sheltered.

we have got all of these buildings along here we havegot a big tree and stuff behind us with gardens and houses and stuff like that.

and then wegot all that netted area and just in front of us here will be our shed.

so, and the reasonwe can do that is because the sun rises over here and comes around the back of us, so itdoesn't ever come through the front of the tunnel so the tunnel will have light prettymuch all day.

even if the shed is in front of it.

So, what we need to do is literallyI have numbered all of these so I know exactly where they go.

Put the next post in screwit and carry on right the way up until we have got it all in and then we will put theback wall and we will do the exact same thing on the other side.

So, it's a bit of towingand froing and like I said, I am having to redig some of the holes because although Imeasured them correctly in the first place, they are not quite lining up with the windowsand things like that, so, the chamfers are different so we have to do that and then weare having to cut down some of the posts as well because they are just way to long.

Soanyway, I will come back to you now when we get some more of this wall up, but in fact,I will leave you running for a little bit for one of these, and then you can see exactlywhat we need to do.

So, what we do here now, I just got to drivethese through, I am sorry if the sun is in your eyes.

I am not sure how dark it's goingto make the video.

So the idea now Is just to drive this through.

There is number one.

And if you notice, It's a bit of a post because obviously, I need to try to get everythingperfectly aligned and I am not at the moment.

But we will get there.

Because I'm There weare looking.

Because I'm working off other things.

and later on, I am just gonna pullit back so I got the tip sticking through.

Later on, we will then bury these posts, butI just wanna make sure they are all level first.

And I'm just lining it up where theyneed to be.

Its a bit awkward ok I can leave that go now a minute and drive this one home.

So, That's another post done.

and, we willgo along now to the next one.

Now, for those who haven't seen this tunnel before theseare pull out windows, now at the moment they are obviously just netted.

But there is windowsthat go in and I don't think I am going to recover them when I recover the polytunnelbecause they are ok.

These windows will go in and then it can stop the wind.

The greatthing about doing it this way is the fact that we have total control over the humidityover the temperature and everything within the polytunnel.

One thing you will find witha lot of polytunnels is that they are very under ventilated and in the summer temperaturesget so high things get scorched and before you know it your running shading over things.

And This helps us to prevent all of that as we control the temperature as we want.

Ifwe want to reduce it a little bit we can remove one window, and in the height of summer allthe windows are out.

and it gets a really good cross ventilation.

Right, let's crackon.

Source: Youtube

Closed Environment Agriculture Greenhouse Tour

Welcome to the ClosedEnvironment AgricultureGreenhouse here we do aquaponics andhydroponics for production of both fish,in this case Tilapia and a variety of lettuces andplants that will be sent to the school's diningprogram at Seneca.

Aquaponics is simply the culture of fish and plants together hydroponics is simply the raising of plants in aquatic media, okay, so it has everything to do with wheredid the water come from This entire system is arecirculating system so the water will enter theTilapia tanks which are the fish that we currently raise, it's a warm water species of cichlid and once it leaves the tank it'sgoing to go behind underground here, and into thesefiltration systems since we're recirculating orreusing the water water quality is key.

So, what we're trying to do when we send it through these different filter systems is remove any uneaten food andany waste of any kind.

So the major solids are caughtby several screens once it leaves this sump area it's going to go into what lookslike pool filters again that's to capture fineparticulate solids the real key, and the real driver of this whole system is that blue filter right there that's where we do ourbiological filtration so that is taking out any toxicammonia metabolites.

The bacteria that colonize a bunch of little plastic balls inside this filter system help reduce that molecule to itsnon-toxic form.

Then the water splits it goes back to the fish and into the plants.

So the nitrate that's alreadypresent in the water serves as a fertilizer.

This is a raft system so theplants are directly on top of the water the roots growing directly downinto the water, okay, and the nitrate that theyreceive from the fish waste, the broken down fish waste serves as that fertilizer to help with growth.

As they grow we're pushing the rafts down as they get bigger and bigger,we'll harvest at the end, and Aquaculture students and Horticulture students come together in this space and they both learn about the animal culture side, so what does it take to keep the fish alive and happy and what nutrients, what nutrition, and what life requirements have to be balanced with plants, okay.

plants like their water a littlemore acidic than fish do and that has to do with nutrientavailability so we have to add some nutrientsto this system and we have to adjust the pH inthis system versus what we have with the fish.

So it's a little more complex to get the whole system functioning as a whole unit, okay.

Couple other things that we do in here we have an irrigation bed that we raise tomatoes in the tomatoes are going to grow up, upwards of nine to ten feet and then we start training theirvines back down so we have heirloom varieties oftomatoes that are going in today with Horticulture students thatare doing most of the planting.

We have nutrient film technique,okay, all we're doing is running wateracross the root system through a PVC pipe, okay the reason I like this system is because we can mirror-image two different water sources so this water source is actuallyaquaponic water, water that came from the fish and is flowing and recirculating through, and this system is hydroponic so you have to do a little bitmore addition on the hydroponic side than youdo on the aquaponic side so we have pH measurements thatare happening live we have temperature measurements that are happening both atmospherically and we've started to add temp loggers to our water reservoirs and we have a computer system that will notify us if there is an emergency and the third thing that wehave is a motorized and computerizedshade cloth, okay.

It uses a light meterand we tell it if you have too much light,basically, to close and if there's not enoughlight to close as well because we want to keep the heatinsulating in so a little bit of automation that we are doing as faras training our students on systems that they would already have in a large-scale production greenhouse.

With this greenhouse you're notgoing to see as much production as you would on theindustrial side of aquaponics and hydroponicsgrowth in large facilities that are producing many differenttypes of plants the reason is this is amodel for education, okay, so we're trying to balance ourstudents' educational experience with the actual productionthat we do.

So one of the things that we end up doing here quite a bit are student projects.

The projects that we'll doinclude anything from having students model what would happen if there was a nutrient deficiency in the water to different types of lights that the industry might use and how does that affect plant growth.

So this is a research space aswell as a production space.

This is particular tray is tostart all of our seedlings.

We start them in a materialcalled rock wool it holds moisture very well and this media is what we're going to start the actual seeds in they'll grow up to seedlings, then we'll transplant them into whatever system they're going in to.

The nutrient filmtechnique system, or, the raft system.

In agriculture any time thatyou can control the outcome you're at less mercyof the elements that's the major thing.

We want to be able to control production cycles so here we can control light, we can control temperature, we can control the media in which they're growing in.

Now the nice thing about this inarea like Morrisville where we do not have necessarily, the year-round access to a variety of different fruits and vegetables,we can give our students fresh fruit and vegetables that we produce on campus all year round so these lettuces will dodifferent cycles of harvesting but generally we're going toharvest six to eight weeks so that's all year long we can provide fresh fruits and vegetables to our students.

Source: Youtube

how to increase greenhouse energy efficiency – old greenhouse renovation

My name is Chris Powell from good harvestfarm, Strasburg, Pennsylvania.

And we’re here today to look at our energyefficiency savings and upgrades.

We had replaced an older 80 years old structurewith a new up to date 4000 square foot structure.

And it has glass roof, energy curtain, radiantheat in the floor.

And I went to propane fired boilers with hotwater and fen tube.

We also upgraded to computer controls.

We’re finding also that our plant qualityis much better because our heat is constant.

The heat is where we needed when we needed.

We’re about six or eight months thank tothe new structure and new heating system.

And seen better results than we were eventold we’re going to get.

Probably, minimum 40% savings versus our oldsystem.

Well over 20000 dollars savings per year.

So far so good.

We’re really glad we did it.

Big investment but see quick payback withit.

Source: Youtube

How To Build A Greenhouse – D.I.Y. At Bunnings

A greenhouse doesn't have to be bucketloadsof cash.

We're gonna make a simple one that you canmove around, and it's gonna have plenty of room in it for all your plants.

We're gonna take your garden area from this.

Tothis.

The good thing about a greenhouse is it cankeep you gardening all year around.

I'm gonna show you how to make a real easyone today.

These are all the tools and equipment thatwe're gonna need to build our greenhouse.

Just a few frames, a little bit of plastic.

If you're a keen gardener, you're gonna wantone of these.

I've got all of my timber pre-cut at Bunnings,and I've sectioned off and labeled all of my different components to make the buildeasy.

To make the base, get the hardwood sleepers,pre-drill and screw together with bugle screws.

To make the base for the floor, we are nowgonna add our timber, down to the bottom, leaving it flush on the floor.

That way you're gonna get a nice clean fit.

Once you have your framing, you can add joistsfor extra support.

This is going to provide the base for theflooring.

Now we have our sub-floor installed.

It's now time to flip it over and put on thecasters.

Use bugle screws.

There's no need to pre-drill, but make sureyou put the wheels with the stoppers on opposing corners.

To lay your floor, put your timber in ribside down, and layer that thirty-odd spacing to still allow for draining.

To make your frame, make the outer frame first,using the framing gun.

I know how big I want my door, so now I justhave to measure and put in my stud work.

Make sure you put in the second brace to allowfor the hinges.

So, that's our front frame made.

Now, let's go and make the door.

Make sure your noggins are flush to the frontof the door to attach your hinges.

To build this side, make a frame and put astud in the middle.

Repeat the process for the other two frames.

Once you've built your framework, it's timeto put the plastic on.

Wrap your frames in plastic, and fix it off.

Make sure you're wearing gloves, and makesure you attach the plastic to the inside of the frame so it looks nice from the outside.

So now we have all of our sides and our frontwrapped.

It's now time to attach the hinges.

Screw the hinges down to the side joists,and attach your pad bolt to the front.

Now the frame's almost finished.

Attach the frame to the base using bugle screws.

It's a little bit tricky, so you might needan extra pair of hands.

To affix the battens to your roof, arrangethem in descending sizes, so you get run-off on the back.

Transfer your measurements from your greenhouseonto some polycarbonate roofing, mark that with a bit of masking tape, and cut to size.

I'm using a metal blade on a medium settingon a jigsaw to allow for a clean cut.

I have measured mine out with a little bitof overhang at the front and at the back to allow rain to fall off.

The last thing we have to do is to attachour roof to our greenhouse.

We're gonna use some roofing screws to dothat.

Attach your screws into the crest of the corrogate.

You only need to do this every second one.

So, there you have it.

A fantastic little greenhouse.

Let's go and find a place for it in the backyard.

So, we have created our own nice, warm environmentfor all of our plants, turning your garden from this.

To this.

Singers: Bunnings Warehouse.

Source: Youtube

The Green House – VLOG #4 Planting

Hi, my name's Joe FletcherI'm the Set & Lighting Designer I'm Gabriella Slade, theCostume Designer for 'The Green House' This week's Production Week It's when the lighting, set, choreography& costumes all come together.

and we sort of 'plant' the creation.

Joe: We really liked the idea of it beingset in a 1950s – 1960s era We developed the idea for quite alinear architectural structure with a wallpaper design that couldhave references to that particular era.

But also translate forGabi with the costumes, to create a sort of camouflageeffect, walking in to the space.

Gabi: In order for the wallpaper patternto be used in the costumes we got bespoke fabrics printed.

I experimented with changing some of thetones of the background colour and the scales of the print, so that each dancer and each characterhas their own individual quality.

But actually, as a whole setof costumes, they appear as one.

There's a lot of repetition inthe piece so it was important that there were a lot of repeatingdetails within the costumes.

There's the use of dividing lines in the set and also inthe costumes, and pleats are used throughout.

It's really important that within'The Green House' the dancers are camouflagedin the environment.

And when they're out,in the blank space.

they can be vibrantand pop!.

Source: Youtube

Greenhouse Growing: on a bench vs on the floor?

Basically there are various differences between growing on a greenhouse bench vs growing on the floor itself.

There are basically 3 things: one is drainage.

On the bench you get good drainage out of the plant material.

When you water the top, the water can run out of the bottom of the container.

On the floor it's tend to be more restricted so crops on the floor tend to stay wetter longer.

Second thing is temperature.

On a bench you can have the air actually go under the bench so it can warm the growing media up.

When it's on the floor, it tends to be colder especially in the winter months the growing media temperatures are colder.

So again you don't get that water usage it's easier to get root disease development.

Third thing that could be an issue with growing on the floor is sometimes you get imperfections in the floor itself, so you can get pockets of water that can wick water back up into the growing media which again adds to thing staying too wet.

Overall I would say that growing on a bench is better because you get better airflow, you can get the temperature warmer right next to the root system and it'll help dry out your growing media.

Source: Youtube